Absolutely UMAzing

Hello again, friends.  This is Allan writing to share another small adventure with you from Macedonia.  This time, about the village of Uma.  This village is near us in Gevgelija as the crow flies.  But this crow must fly straight up the mountains.  Uma is at about 1200 feet in steep forested terrain.  It is small village, maybe 50 people, most there only in the summer, and it is now used as a seasonal retreat for the homeowners.  The road is winding, gravel, with the last mile or so miraculously paved.


Uma is described as a Vlach village.  The
Vlachs are a small ethnic group here in Macedonia, with a distinct language and uncertain history.  For all you haters of history, this is your cue to plug your ears and go "watermelon, watermelon" while the rest of us serenely read on.  Vlachs are generally believed to have been local tribes that adapted to Roman occupation, and developed a romance language.  They preferred to stay in the more remote areas of the Balkans, and became herders that travelled with their animals.  Eventually they settled in remote areas and into villages.  There are several estimates of the age of the village of Uma, but the church is thought to be from as early as the 14th century, and rebuilt in the mid-1800s.  After all these years, Uma still does not show up on too many maps.

Each year, my NGO, the Apollonia Foundation, hosts artists from around Eastern Europe for a 2 week period.  This year there are artists from Macedonia, Greece, Serbia, Russia and Bulgaria.  Everything they need is provided and paid for by the Foundation; their only job is to create beauty.  They stay in the hotel during the week, and on the weekends, in Uma.  Much rakija is consumed, many art supplies are exhausted, and much beauty results.  Kathy and I hitched a  ride up the mountain to see this happen.  Here is a glimpse of art in action at 1200 feet.

Looking toward Mt Kozuf from Uma.  Storm coming in . .

Here is the bell tower, which appeared to be quite old.  There is also a shot of the rickety wooden stairs built into the walls, only to be used by the reckless or rakija-laden.

The inside of the church.  The frescoes were amazing, and looked to be in a very early style.  The columns were uniquely decorated unlike I have seen before.  Writing was in old Greek.  Only dim light and the overall result was one of incredible beauty.  

Hand rail on interior balcony

Ceiling beams, painted of course.  The ceilings on either side the length of the church were molded, colored wooden squares.  Too much to take in it seemed.

Many of the frescos depicted the travails of various saints.  It was tough duty being a saint and you were apparently tested in any number of creative, vindictive ways.  Here is probably St. Daniel trying to work things out with the lions.  I think this one turned out OK, but many other depictions ended badly.

We who are about to make art, salute you!

Making art is hungry work.  The Foundation Director got everyone off to a good start in the typical Balkan way, rakija and salad.

No starving artists in Uma.  Also no unhappy artists either, as the rakija was there to create visions.  We enjoyed beautiful vegetables, grilled meats, wild mushrooms and wild boar.  Quite a vision in itself!

This is Leo.  Five years old and smart as the dickens.  He was our flower guy, and also had some sweet martial arts moves.  

Uma, now just summer homes.  

Still a few older homes too, waiting for a return of their owners.  

 Below is Kathy, making her own art.  She is finishing up an embroidery design for one of the grandkids outside the church walls.  My contribution was food consumption and scratching the ears of the village dogs, which were plentiful.

Our favorite village dog, called "Maga" but really answered to "Hey"

Any truly amazing day must include time to rest and soak in all the beauty.   The artists have continued to perform their essential work.  It will be displayed at the Hotel, and some will be left behind to decorate the rooms.  Come see it for yourself, and if you have a car we'll show you the way to Uma.
Al